Tools and materials for papercutting
Every artist has their own preferred work kit. And while the tools by now means define art and art quality, choosing the right ones would definitely help to move in the right direction, quicker and easier.
The following tools are ones that I am using for my papercuts. They might not be the best ones, but they work great for me, and I am very happy to recommend them to you.
Also, I am constantly trying out new materials. So if there’s something new I like, would it be blade, paper, or a cutting mat, I’ll make sure to reflect it here.
Paper cutting knife
Probably one of the most important ones on the list. This is something you’ll be keeping in your hands for a very long time, so the knife handle should fit you very well.
I am using s Fiskars knife handle for my papercuts. It has a small rubber band around it and is generally a bit heavier then the typical knife. Because of this it sits really well in hand, even when cutting for hours.
Blades
For my paper cuts I am using x-acto blades #11. i believe this is a pretty much default blade type in the papercut community. You can always buy a small box on Amazon. But my suggestion would be to get a bigger box on AliExpress (box of 100 blades).
You should change your blades on a regular basis. The frequency is of course individual for everyone, and it would also depend on the type of work you do. Personally I usually use one or two blades for a single A4 papercut.
There are two main reasons why you’d like to change your blades regularly:
This helps you to get nicer cleaner cuts and be extra precise on tiny areas. The more intricate the details > the sharper the blade you’ll need > the more often you would change the blades.
When you’re working with new sharp blade your hand will be more relaxed and thus will require less effort to cut. Less stress for hands mean more healthy hands.
Note: For papercutting the most important element is the very top point of the blade. Thus I am switching my blades when the point is getting broken. This means that the whole blade (which is about 1cm) is still extremely sharp. Store your disposed blades carefully (I am using a plastic box with a lid) and dispose them according to the rules.
Cutting mat
This is a topic I am still researching and I find it very difficult to give a definitive answer on what mat is the best.
Currently I am using the A2 Vantage cutting mat. It is relatively cheap and works just fine. I also have a super cheap 4 EUR mat of an A3 size that I got from a second-hand store, and it also works just fine.
When choosing a mat make sure that it is layered and relatively soft. Generally the more layers it has the longer it will serve you. Do keep in mind that you’ll have to replace your mat every so often. For instance for myself, while cutting literally every single day for a few hours, I have to replace my mats every 2-3 months or so.
If you are planning on making papercuts of about A4 size then you should take an A3 cutting mat. You always want your mat to be a bit bigger then your paper size, so that the papercut doesn’t get “locked” and torn on the corners of the mat.
Paper
I use Clairfontaine 120gsm office paper (I order mine here). It is thin enough to cut, but strong enough to hold when cutting thin lines. For reference, print paper is about 80gsm and carton would starts at around 200gsm.
In my opinion 80 is too thin for papercuts that are bigger then A5. I find it very easy to damage my cuts while working with small details. Carton on the other hand is quite difficult to cut. Your hand will get tired rather quickly, which may lead to your cuts being less precise.
I’ve tried cutting watercolour paper before (both cold and hot pressed), but for me it is too “fluffy”: it doesn’t allow for sharp sleek cuts.
Sketching
Before starting the cut I am always making quite a few sketches.
This helps me to balance out my composition upfront. It also makes sure that whatever I plan to cut is designed in such a manner that it can be cut out of a single sheet of paper. Most importantly, tracing my sketch to the final sheet of paper helps me to keep my pencil lines extra clean, so I can avoid confusion of where and how to cut.
What is nice about sketching multiple versions of the same sketch – layering it over and over again – is that you can work out more interesting shapes, lines, and directions.
Currently I am using my iPad for all my sketches, since there I can do layers faster. When I am ready with my sketch, I will print it in the size I need and will trace it to the final piece of paper.
If you prefer to sketch on paper, you can always use carbon or tracing paper to reach the layering effect.
Tracing
I use a light box to trace my sketch to the final paper sheet. It allows me to see both underlying sketch and my final version, so I still have a chance to do a few final adjustments if needed.
The light box I am using was build by my partner, but there are lots of affordable alternative you can get online.
When choosing a light box, consider the following:
While bigger size would be more convenient long term, it’s not going to limit you. You can easily move paper around and trace A3 sketch using A4 light box.
The more powerful LED lights you have the easier it will be to trace (it will allow for a higher contrast).
Spray paint
I really like how my papercuts look in black. Somehow they resemble the linocut technique, but then in 3D. Unfortunately I find it quite tricky to cut directly on dark paper: I cannot trace my sketch that easily, and I cannot see the pencil lines very clearly (I tell a bit more about this in my cutting method overview). Fortunately, cutting everything on light paper and then spraying it with black paint works just fine.
I am getting my paint in a local craft store, and the brand really doesn’t matter to me. From my experience any water-based acrylic spray paint should do the trick. The one I am using costs me 2 EUR per can, and lasts for about 5-6 papercuts (I am spraying mine a few times from both sides).
Additional handy tools to have around
While cutting, every now and then you may need the following tools:
Pencil – I use a mechanical one for tracing, since it leaves sharper lines
Eraser – Get a relatively soft one: it will leave fewer marks on the paper
Ruler – I have a metal one: it is quite heavy and easier to use compared to a plastic
Scissors – Sometimes bigger paper areas (e.g. borders) are easier to cut with scissors
Transparent office tape – To fix small paper cuts that were not supposed to be paper cut…
Office files – Super handy to store your paper cuts
I hope you’ll find this overview helpful ✂️
If you’re using some different tools or materials, or maybe have some thoughts about the ones I’ve shared above – please send me a DM in Instagram or an email. I’d love to hear from you ❤️